Azelaic acid – a multitask ingredient for sensitive skin

The secret of its popularity

Azelaic acid has long been used medically for treating both acne and rosacea. Its undeniable effects have also attracted the attention of the cosmetics industry, and nowadays it is easy to incorporate into your skincare routine, for example in the form of a serum or face cream.

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally produced by the skin's normal microbiota — such as Malassezia yeast. It has versatile physiological effects, including antibacterial, keratinization-inhibiting, pigment-lightening, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. Azelaic acid is widely used in dermatological treatments, and it has been shown to be effective in treating acne and melasma (1). In cosmetics, azelaic acid is an excellent skin tone equalizer, redness reducer, and aid in controlling impurities (2).

Who is azelaic acid suitable for?

Although it is an acid, azelaic acid is not a particularly exfoliating ingredient; its mechanisms primarily involve inhibiting excess melanin production (i.e., reducing hyperpigmentation), treating uneven skin texture, and impurities.

Azelaic acid is a true multitasker! Azelaic acid can be an excellent ingredient for you if you have:

🩷 Sensitive and reactive skin: soothes inflammation-prone skin

🧡 Acne-prone skin: prevents clogging and is antibacterial

💛 Dark spots: evens out skin tone and helps to reduce hyperpigmentation.

💙 Redness: reduces redness and skin irritation.

💚 Combination and/or oily skin: helps keep sebum production balanced without drying effect.

Is azelaic acid safe during pregnancy?

Azelaic acid is a commonly used ingredient also during pregnancy! (3, 5) Most sources recommend it instead of retinol during pregnancy. Like retinol, azelaic acid can help with both impurities and hyperpigmentation, but it is a better tolerated ingredient, and animal testing has not shown harm to the fetus, although there is not enough data on its effects on humans. Some sources state it is completely safe and others advise as a precaution to avoid it during the first trimester and only then include it in the skincare routine. In these cases, however, reference is made to non-cosmetic preparations where azelaic acid is used as a medicine for acne treatment. (4)

It is always important to consult your own doctor during pregnancy 💜

Is it suitable for all skin tones?

Not all ingredients work equally well across different skin tones. The effects of azelaic acid on darker skin have been tested and it has been found to be a safe option also for darker skin, which is very prone to hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid does not lighten the skin but helps even out skin tone and fade dark spots or marks. (6)

What should azelaic acid not be combined with?

Azelaic acid is a good combination with any ingredient! The best combo is individual and depends on your personal needs and your skin's own sensitivity.

Good examples of combinations of different ingredients:

💜 Azelaic acid + retinol = an excellent combo for controlling impurities and hyperpigmentation, and retinol also brings great anti-aging effects ✨ Try for example Anua Azelaic 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing toner pads together with K-Secret Seoul 1988 Retinal Liposome 2% + Black Ginseng serum

💜 Azelaic acid + AHA/BHA = the best combo for improving skin unevenness! Try adding to your weekly routine for example Anua BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner together with Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing serum

💜 Azelaic acid + panthenol = an effective combo to soothe the skin and reduce redness. You can get effective skin calming, for example, from hwarang's Bellflower Moisturizing Barrier cream, which contains panthenol as well as soothing calendula extract, azulein, and ectoine 🌱

💜 Azelaic acid + peptides = a pregnancy-safe combo instead of retinol! Combine, for example, SKIN1004 Centella Poremizing Fresh Ampoule and Anua Azelaic 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing toner pads

How quickly can you see results?

This depends on the desired outcome and the challenges you want to overcome, but for example, calming the skin and reducing redness are things where you can expect to see very quick results. On the other hand, clearing impurities and evening out dark spots always takes longer, from several weeks to a few months, and in the case of hyperpigmentation, even from six months to a year. As with all cosmetics, consistency is the key! So don't give up if you don't see effects immediately, just keep up the routine 🙌🏼

A trendy ingredient that is here to stay 🕺🏽

Azelaic acid is a perfect example that skincare doesn't always require harsh ingredients or complicated routines to achieve results. This powerful ingredient can do a bit of everything – soothe, brighten, balance, and maintain a healthy skin microbiome.

So if you're looking for an ingredient that makes your skin balanced and radiant without drama, azelaic acid is the friendly multitasker you can trust.

👉🏼 Check out Yeppo's azelaic acid-containing products here!