How to read an ingredient list? Learn what your product contains!

You find an interesting product and turn the packaging – the back of the package is full of strange words and the list is surprisingly long. What am I putting on my face?? Today we will tell you how to solve the age-old mystery: reading the ingredient list aka the INCI. What is the meaning behind the strange Latin names and numbers? When you understand what your product contains and what cosmetics are made of, it is easier to shop for cosmetics with confidence. The topic is broad, but let's break it down into parts: 

How to read the ingredient list? And what does the ingredient list tell you and what does it not tell you?

📖 The importance of the ingredient list

The ingredient list, or INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), is mandatory under EU legislation when purchasing cosmetics. If you buy a product without an ingredient list..! 🚩🚩🚩

The ingredient list shows all the ingredients contained in the product in order of quantity. The most used ingredient is first, the second most used next, and so on. An exception is ingredients that are less than 1% – they can be listed in any order at the end of the list. This legislation differs from Korean law, where ingredients do not have to be in order of quantity. So if you buy products from Korea, keep in mind that this does not apply there. There is one exception in declaring the contents of the ingredient list: fragrances are labeled as parfum or aroma, and only certain allergenic fragrances must be declared separately. Not every component of the fragrance is listed partly due to space constraints and to protect the brand's products. 

The ingredient list does not need to indicate the percentage of ingredients, so you can't be sure of the exact amount of certain ingredients. Is this a bad thing? The concentration of an ingredient does not tell the whole story about the product's effectiveness. Many active ingredients are very effective even in very small concentrations, so if they appear at the bottom of the ingredient list, it doesn't mean the product lacks efficacy. If ingredient concentrations were written, it would also be easier for competitors to copy the products – which few brands want to allow!

INCI names may sound complicated, but they follow an international standard and are listed according to their chemical IUPAC names. For example, "Butyrospermum Parkii Butter" means the familiar shea butter. The names precisely indicate which ingredient is used but do not specify its quality or origin. Some ingredients also contain numbers and may seem strange. However, there is no need to fear numbers! Numbers refer to the chemical composition of substances, for example, the number of hydrocarbons in the raw material. Cosmetics are ultimately just organic chemistry, and whether natural cosmetics or synthetic, it is all chemistry 💫

🔎 What does my product contain? – The composition of cosmetics simply explained

Cosmetics are not just active ingredients; they are like a recipe where different parts make the product pleasant, functional, and preservable. A large part of skincare products is mostly water (pure water or plant water) or oil (cleansing oils and oil serums). Does it mean the product is ineffective if the first ingredient is water? Absolutely not – water is essential for many cosmetic products so that other ingredients can dissolve in it. If you applied 100% active ingredient directly to your skin, the result would be far from beautiful and would only damage your skin. Think of a cup of coffee ☕️ If you ask for coffee, are you disappointed when you don't get 100% ground coffee? Or do you hope the coffee is dissolved in hot water so you can enjoy a cup of hot coffee? Water thus plays an important role in delivering the active ingredients we need to our skin. 

Every raw material has its part in the product. Every raw material also costs, so ingredients are not added just to get a long ingredient list. Let's now look at the building blocks of a typical cosmetic product. The examples also include the ingredient names as they are written in the ingredient list. 

1. Solvents

Most of the product consists of the substance on which the product is built, so-called solvents or base materials:

• Water: water (aqua/water) is the most common ingredient in creams and gels, typically found in the top 3 of the ingredient list. Water is also found in flower waters, such as ginseng water (panax ginseng root water)

• Plant oils or mineral oils: Provide softness to the skin and prevent moisture evaporation. Serve as the base for cleansing oils and balms. 

• Alcohols: Used as solvents or composition modifiers – most alcohols used in cosmetics are moisturizing! For example, one of the most well-known ingredients, glycerol, is an alcohol. Fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, which is found in many products, are also alcohols. It moisturizes, softens, and also acts as an emulsifier, meaning it helps water and oil mix. 

2. Emollients

Emollients make the skin soft and smooth. They can strengthen the skin's protective barrier by preventing excess water evaporation from the skin, thus improving the skin's moisture balance 💦 They themselves do not always add moisture to the skin but help retain moisture in the skin. They can be natural oils or synthetic substances, but their mechanism of action is still the same. 

Examples of different emollients:

• many fatty alcohols such as butylene glycol (butylene glycol)
• plant oils, butters, and waxes, such as sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed oil)

3. Hydrating ingredients

Moisturizing ingredients bind water either from the skin or the air, helping to bring and keep the skin hydrated. Water itself is not, for example, a moisturizing ingredient on the skin. Almost all skincare contains moisturizing ingredients. 

4. Emulsifiers and surfactants

Emulsifiers keep water and oil mixed – without them, the cream would separate into layers. In INCI names, they can be hard to recognize (e.g. glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20). 

5. Active ingredients

These are the star ingredients of products and often the reason why we purchase the product. An active ingredient basically means any substance in the product that fulfills its purpose. In a moisturizing product, hyaluronic acid is one of the active ingredients, whereas the same substance would not be a key active ingredient in an exfoliating product. There are many kinds of active ingredients, for example:

• Soothing and balancing, such as centella asiatica and panthenol (panthenol)

• Antioxidants e.g. niacinamide (niacinamide) and vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

• Acids e.g. AHA and BHA acids, such as salicylic acid (salicylic acid)

• Moisturizers such as glycol and polyglutamic acid (polyglutamic acid / PGA)

• Extracts such as plant extracts and fermented raw materials

• Well-aging ingredients such as vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde, and other forms of vitamin A)

• UV filters such as titanium dioxide (Titanium dioxide) and ethylhexyl triazone

A small amount does not always mean inefficiency – some substances, like retinol, work best at low concentrations. Other active ingredients, such as vitamin C, can be present in the product at concentrations as high as 20%. Cosmetic chemists also utilize the power of synergy – many ingredients boost each other's effectiveness, for example vitamin C and ferulic acid, allowing vitamin C to be effective even at low concentrations. 

6. Preservatives

Preservatives are added to cosmetics to prevent spoilage, loss of effectiveness, and/or harm to the skin. Common examples include phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or potassium sorbate. These are usually present in very small amounts but are essential for product safety. Preservatives are generally added to products as ready-made mixtures, which may contain ingredients that we associate with other properties. For example, salicylic acid used as an exfoliant is found in many preservative mixtures, so salicylic acid is not always present in the product as an exfoliating ingredient. 

7. Viscosity Regulators

These are an important part of the product because without achieving the right viscosity, the product can be difficult or unpleasant to apply. Examples of viscosity-regulating ingredients include gums such as xanthan gum, silicones such as vinyl dimethicone , as well as various acrylates, polymers, alcohol, and salt. Achieving and maintaining the correct viscosity in the product affects not only spreadability and comfort but also the product's shelf life. 

8. Colorants, Aromas, and Fragrances

Colorants are a natural part of makeup products, but sometimes also part of skincare products. Aromas are often used in lip products, such as lip balms, to provide comfort and mask unpleasant tastes. Fragrances improve the product experience or can mask the unpleasant natural odor of the product's raw materials. 

If the product says parfum or fragrance, it contains fragrances, but this does not specify the exact contents of the fragrances. For many brands, scents are an important part of their image, and naturally, they do not want competitors to know all the components of their fragrances. However, the EU requires that certain fragrance components (such as linalool and limonene) must be named separately if their concentration exceeds certain limits. This helps users sensitive to these ingredients recognize the risks. 

9. pH Regulators

Water-based products have a pH value, and if the pH either decreases or increases, the product's properties can change; for example, the product may oxidize and lose its effectiveness. This is especially important with antioxidant products, which oxidize easily. Typical pH regulators include citric acid and benzoic acid.

Filler ingredients – are there unnecessary ingredients?

You've probably heard the idea that you should look for products that have "no filler ingredients". So which ingredients are unnecessary? An ingredient that may seem unnecessary to some could be the ingredient that affects the skin's feel the most. It may not do anything for skin's health, but it can help e.g. the product spread more evenly on the skin. Or a product without preservatives might mean a product that lasts only a few weeks at best. Preservatives do not provide skincare benefits but help you get the most out of your product safely. Silicones are also a category often criticized as "filler ingredients." Silicones are often found in makeup and hair products. Without these so-called filler ingredients in makeup products, applying makeup evenly would be almost impossible. So luckily, there are these ingredients that make using the products pleasant!

The many different roles of ingredients

What makes interpreting the ingredient list challenging is that the same ingredient can have many uses. Depending on the method of use and concentration, one ingredient can either enhance preservation or brighten. For example niacinamide can act as a brightening active ingredient at higher concentrations, but at the same time it can strengthen the product's shelf life. Glycerin is known as a moisturizer, but it can also help stabilize the product's structure. Also, Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) can serve both as an antioxidant protecting the product and as a skin tone evening active ingredient at the highest concentrations.

How high an ingredient is on the list can indicate its role in the product. 

How to interpret the INCI list in practice

The ingredient list may seem confusing, but once you know a few basic rules, you can get a lot of information from it. Start reading from the top: the first ingredients on the list are those present in the highest amounts in the product. Identify the product's active ingredients and see if they match the product description. 

🌿 For example, Purito Mighty Bamboo Panthenol Cream:

Water, Panthenol (10%), Squalane, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract (3,497 Ppm), Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1

What can be seen from this ingredient list and what are the functions of the ingredients?

1. Water and 1,2-hexanediol are solvents in the product and create the product's base feel. The product is water-based, like many face creams, but 1,2-hexanediol gives the product a pleasant smooth feel and also acts as a moisturizer and booster for preservatives.

2. Panthenol, butylene glycol and sodium hyaluronate acts as moisturizers and humectants. Panthenol also strengthens the skin's protective barrier and soothes the skin. It is present in high concentration, making it a logical part of the product's marketing and name. 

3. Squalane and hydrolyzed jojoba esters act as emollients that soften and nourish the skin. Hydrated jojoba ester is a water-soluble, lighter version derived from pure jojoba oil.

4. Niacinamide, panthenol, bambusa vulgaris extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, copper tripeptide-1, madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid are the product's active ingredients. For example, bamboo extract soothes the skin, niacinamide brightens, and the peptide firms the skin. The peptide is not a major player in this product but still adds value. Most active ingredients soothe and strengthen the skin, indicating the product is likely targeted at sensitive skin. 

5. Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer and xanthan gum regulate the product's texture and viscosity. They play an essential role in the product's feel. 

6. Hydroxyacetophenone and ethylhexylglycerin are preservatives in the product. 

7. Tromethamine is a pH adjusterand disodium EDTA keeps the product stable and prevents reactions with metal ions

There are only 22 ingredients, which is a fairly modest number of ingredients in the product. The product mainly consists of skin-moisturizing, soothing, and brightening ingredients, so it can be a good choice for sensitive skin suffering from hyperpigmentation. 

However, you can't tell from the ingredient list if the product has a characteristic scent, how it feels on the skin, or how well it absorbs into your skin. Only by trying it can you really know if you like the product or not ☝🏼

👉🏼 Summary – know what you buy, without stress

The INCI list is not a secret code, but a helpful tool when buying cosmetics. You don't need to know every term by heart, but a basic understanding helps you make better choices. 

🔍  The ingredient list is useful, but it doesn't tell you everything about the product 👀 That's why our next article continues this topic with the title: What the ingredient list tells you – and what it doesn't?